This wire wrap project is appropriate for a coin that is the size of a quarter (1"across) or a cabochon that is fairly flat and also about 1" across. 
      I got some of my information and the inspiration to create these directions from another artists sight.  https://www.scribd.com/beadinggem    Please visit this sight to get even more information on  measurements for other sized coins. Or visit http://www.scribd.com/doc/91672366/How-to-Wire-Wrap-a-Coin-Pendant-Tutorial#scribd for their full instructions.

*If making something a different size you will need to change your wire length, possibly add the number of wires for bezel width (for the depth of the stone), and also use the correct size dowel for creating the frame for your bezel. 

              7.   With half round wire wrap the three center marked areas on the square bundle wire four times each (cut ends should all be on one side and away from edges, this will be the inside/wrong side.)

            9.   Now wrap wire bundle around the 1” dowel starting at the center wrap with the inside/wrong side facing the dowel. 
             10.    Place coin or stone into center of bezel and check that the wires cross at the top where the remaining marks are, if they do not, adjust them so that they do.​
              11. Once you get the marks correct make 90 degree angles outward from the frame on the marks (these will be the bail wires)

           14.    Place coin or stone into bezel and hold in place with painter's tape.
           15.   At each bezel wrap on the frame and at the center of each side of the bail wires create small bends in the outer wire only to hold coin. Start at the bottom of the coin and go up towards the top. Do on both sides of coin. Start with top and remove painter’s tape as needed to reach bottom area. Do this carefully so not to scratch coin.  Remove or adjust painter's tape when as you go.

​ Option two (with 1/2 round un-trimmed)
               16. Wrap the four to five bail wires front to back around the 1/4" dowel.Use flat nose to bring them in close.
               17.   Wrap the bail with ½ round wire tightly, trim  1/2 round wire and re-tighten with flat nose pliers
               18.  Spread out the bail loops to look nice

               19.  Cut the back tails(4) to 3/4" ,  file smooth
               20.  Make tiny loops on small tails at the back of the coin and lay them flat against the coin
                21.   Finish remaining tails by filing them and curling them into soft coils or creating large loopy swirls towards the front.

Also Checkout some of my handmade pieces as well 

   

Always wanted to learn how to make some fun and fashionable earrings? Well lets get to it! These earrings not only have swing and a little rock and roll personality, they are fairly easy to make yourself and you can change them to suit your limitless imagination and bead supply, which ever comes first.

      4.   Cut chain into 14 pieces 1"(there may be a very tiny chain left but we are losing one ring each time we cut, so do not cut them longer).

      5.    Slide one chain then one ball onto the hoop alternating till you have 7 chains and six balls on each hoop. Do not worry if the wire gets a little warped, you can reshape it on the shot glass if needed.

      6.   Now make a loop on the other end that goes around under the other loop and close it.

       7.   Add your DIY ear wire and you have a pair of real rock and roll earrings

    

     Making a metal bracelet with a center bead can be done with a few tools and is a great beginner project for learning wire shaping. I love these bangles because you can stack the bracelets and they take very little time to make when you get the hang of it.

Directions

     1. Cut the 16-18 gauge wire to 4"

     2. Cut the 14 gauge wire to 6 1/2(small) , 7"(medium) or 7 1/2"(large) 

     3. Using emery board gently round and soften the ends so they do not scratch you

     4. Slide bead/s onto the 16-18 gauge wire centering the beads 

     5. Using the round nose pliers bend each side down about 45 degrees 

     6. Using the pen or pencil and your fingers if possible wrap the wire around and cross over the wire.( if you are good with round nose pliers you can do it without the pen)

     7. Using the flat nose pliers wrap the wire around twice for a clean and secure conection

     8. Hammer one end of the 14 gauge wire approximately 1/2" from end to flatten slightly, then using the emery board smooth out edges (If you do not have a hammer, do not panic. This step can be left out. I like to do it for a cleaner more professional look).  

     9. Using widest part of your round nose pliers hook the other end but do not close the loop completely yet.

     10. Using the 2" round object you have wrap the wire around it to form a open circle with your loop facing out.

     11.Using the round pliers make a half circle on the other end facing out.

      12. Now just put bead  onto open loop and close it tight. Then gently shape the bead wire to be a small arch and put on your new bangle bracelet!

       

                    Wire Gauge and What to use when.....   

    As you begin to learn about wire wrapping and jewelry component making, you will realize that often the sizes of these materials is measured as gauge. If you re anything like I was in the beginning this will be a "What the Mackerel does that mean?" moment.

         Let me explain.  Gauge is the measurement used to define the thickness of a wire. The Larger the number the smaller the thickness. For Example a size 12 gauge wire is quite thick and a size 26 gauge is very fine. Gauges are usually seen between 26(super fine)  to about 16 (thick) in most local craft stores in the jewelry wire section. You can get wires in an even larger range at wholesale on-line craft stores such as Rio Grande and Fire Mountain Gems as well.

        So what does this mean to the making process?  Well it can depend on what type of metal you are using as well as what you want to do with it. What I mean is if the metal is soft you may need a thicker wire to do the same or similar job as what a harder metal can do with a thinner gauge.  That is why, when you go looking for what gauge is for what situation, sometimes you find lists that show a range of gauges for the same jobs. But let's start with the basics.


        According to one of my favorite inspiring how to books, The Earring Style Book by Stephanie A Wells the break down looks like this for size and use.  
            
      Gauge
       26(super fine)-  Single and double wrapped loops, teardrop loop and wrap, wrapping single beads and attaching beads to frames.

        24(very fine)- Eye pins and head pins, single and double wrapped loop, teardrop loop and wrap, wrapping single beads to frames.

         22(Fine)- Eye pins and head pins, loops, teardrop loop and wrap, attaching beads to frames.
        
         20(Medium)- Ear wires, jump rings, eye pins and head pins, connecting frame pieces.

        18 -14 or larger(thick)- Frames 


        I used this guide often, when I was first learning the art of wire wrapping to decide where to begin on a project. However as my experience has grown I have found that softer metals will need to be at least one size thicker in gauge for the same results of strength. That being said it is only comfortable to go up to a size 19 gauge at the largest, for ear wires. Anything thicker can be heavy and cause irritation on the wearer. Another way to get around this is to gently hammer the ear wire, at the u-shape part, to strengthen it.  

       As you begin to work with wire, you will find your own comfort for different operations. I find that I do not like the very fine wires to work with because most of the wrapping I do involves ends that are never tucked under. When using the fine wire this in usually suggested because they are too soft to stay in place otherwise and will unravel during polishing(at least this has been my experience with dead soft metals, copper and aluminum) So for my designs I usually will not use a wire smaller than 19 gauge or 18 gauge for attaching beads to frames and wrapping stones. I also find that the finer gauges are too soft to hold as jump rings, unless tempered, or hammered, if the metal is dead soft. I also work with much larger sizes of aluminum because it is extremely soft and even gentle hammering can only harden it slightly. 

     Most of the wire I work with is either dead soft or soft, what this means is that it will shape much easier. I love the look of the hammering effect so I prefer it over the hard wire in most cases. I also believe that when you start learning it is a better choice so you can get your technique worked out before trying the harder metals. Copper is fairly inexpensive to work with and will give you a chance to experiment with your learning. I also suggest starting with just two sizes to begin, and from my point of view 20 gauge and 16 gauge is a great for many of your first projects.

        I hope this helps to clarify the gauge matter and gets you to the wire isle soon. Have fun and see what works for you. 
  
              Feel Free to visit my Gallery/Shop to see examples of different jewelry pieces made with different gauges and metals.